Finally in Mango!!

We made it!

A few days ago you may have read about an ill-fated trek to the second-highest summit in Togo.  Well, the intrepid adventurers would not be denied their victory over the mountain.  So, after a very brief planning meeting (essentially, "Hey, what are you doing right now?  Wanna climb that mountain again?") we grabbed some water, a trusty coup-koup and a replacement for Nate - who was busily repairing his moto - we ventured off into the bush again.  Dr John, Dr. Jeff, Nolan and I were off!

We happened upon two Togolese men who were walking the same path as us.  We  passed them a couple of times on the way up, as we didn't know the trails and they did.  We also found that they paced themselves better - though we did beat them to the top, AND we hit two peaks, not just one...  

 The trail led us to some interesting places, like right through the middle of several little huts and settlements.  WE felt like we were intruding but seemed welcomed as we greeted the people who lived there.  Little kids would excitedly point at the funny yovos as we smiled and waved at them.

The day was hot and humid, as all of them seem to be.  We drank plenty of water and sweat it out just as quickly. 

 We reached a small group of huts and asked if this was the way to the top, which we could tell was very close.  A short old guy and a taller young fellow were excited to take us to the top.  The old guy spoke poor French, which was fine because I listen very poorly to French!

However, since I was the most fluent of our group, I was appointed spokesman.  I finally figured out that since he had no way of growing anything up on top of the rocky soil he wanted money for showing us to the top.  We honestly had no money, no functioning (in Togo, at least) cell phone, one large koup-koup to share among 4 of us, and 4 bottles of water.  I started us down the little peak of the mountain to get out of there.  The little guy would have nothing of it though.  When we got back to the huts I told the others to carry on a short distance.

When he figured his source of income for the day was departing he put his hand on my chest and wouldn't let me past.  I basically told him I was here for a walk, not to buy anything.  He was starting to get a bit to agitated for my liking when a door of a hut behind him opened and a really big, really muscular guy bent down to exit the doorway.  I was beginning to wonder how he was going to break me when he reached down and grabbed little man by the shirt and pulled him out of the way.  Realizing I was being given a clear path I said many thanks and well wishes as I scooted out of there!

I didn't feel any spears in my back, and rejoined the group who were waiting just in the trees beyond the clearing.  We hurried the next few hundred metres to the true, highest summit in the little mountain range.

I have no pictures of this episode and neither do either of the doctors who accompanied Nolan and I.  They didn't want to stir the pot by asking for a pose at that precise moment and to be honest, a photo was not high on my list of things to ask for right then either.  You can ask them, they'll tell you the story!

Anyhow, the view from the top made it all worthwhile.  Here is the summit team - Dr Jeff, Dr. John, Nolan and your's truly.  As well are a couple of the photos I took from the top.

 The Road to Mango

Okay, this is a horrible drive.  First we had to head south to meet a lady who had just received Kylie's medication late the night before, so that added time and distance to the trip.  We left just after a beautiful sunrise.  A nice farewell to Tsiko and the beautiful south.

Then - we promptly had a tire go flat and needed to get it changed at the local tire repair shop.  It's right on the side of the road.

We had to travel the 'No-chay' road.  I'm not sure how to spell it - maybe Notse or Nodje, or perhaps Knowtche'... whatever...   It's a latterite (red gravel, basically) road that connects with the main highway, simply called Highway 1.  There is no Highway 2.

This next shot needs explanation.  That's not dust.  That's exhaust smoke from a moto that passed us in the latterite road.  We didn't see a mosquito for 3 hours after he went by!

The road - the main and only route north - sucks really, truly sucks!  It is cratered and pot-holed like nothing you would see in North America.  Not only that, it is filled with some of the most unsafe, poorly-thought-out loading of vans and trucks known to humankind!  Yet, there are not too many things strewn about the highway.  However, when something does let go, it's epic!!

 In the middle of a straight road, a truck had tipped over.  I don't know how that happens, but in Africa things like this just do.

 On a mountain pass, this truck's engine or transmission gave out.  It had rolled back and jack-knifed in the middle of the road.

Here there was a head on collision between a truck and an SUV.  The load of tomato paste lost the battle.  Guys were unloading it by hand to help clear the road.  We passed a dozen or more trucks to get up to the scene, and Nate squeezed the little van past on the opposite shoulder with little room to spare between the trailer and the drop on the other side of the van!

 Here is the most popular roadside attraction in the country.  A rock cut that separates the two lanes of traffic.

 This last picture of the highway is for my mom.  There will be no shortage of baskets at Home Sense.  I saw the next delivery headed north.

The Mango Project

We unpacked after arriving at the house in Mango and grabbed a quick supper and headed to church with the other builders, workers and missionaries on Sunday night.  It was good to see some of the people working with Nate and Erin.  

Here is Pastor Haak, from LaGrange, Ohio, using 'the force' on one of the workers...

 

The next morning I finally got to see it.  Nate took me for a tour of the project before we started working with Bawa and Fusini (two carpenters) at the water tower.  I took some photos from the water tower to give it all some perspective.  It's a 64 acre site with lots of construction going on!  

The silver roofed building is Phase 1 of the hospital.  It's the space where people will sign in, be assigned waiting rooms and see the doctors.  There is also a pharmacy and dental area, too.  Phase 2 is the block building going up directly behind (in front, in the photo) which will be administration and operating rooms, as well as laundry, and some other stuff.  Phase 3 is the section behind (in front agin, in the photo) which will have long-term care and other uses.  

To the left of the hospital buildings is the guest house, with some small apartments attached to it, a large maintenance shop and some housing for medical staff and their families.  You can't see the houses for the shop blocking the view but I can tell you they are there.  I am typing from one of them right now!

If you follow the red latterite service road from the back of the shop to the base of the water tower these photos are taken from, then look right, you get the view of the property wall and the countryside beyond.

 Here is a closer view of the continuing work on all of the hospital phases.  Lots going on everywhere you go on this site!

It's been great to see what work has been going on here.  There is still much to do, but progress is being made!  Hopefully this hospital will have a great influence on the surrounding region.  It will draw people for miles around - from 4 or more countries too!  People from Benin, Burkina Faso, Ghana and even Mali will be able to get care at this facility.





Oh, one more thing...

We killed TWO poisonous snakes on the site today - before lunchtime!  One was exactly 4 feet long.  The other, it was a bit shorter.  They both were the same kind.

Here they are.  If someone can identify them I would appreciate it.  The workers only knew the Anafo language name for them.  I'm not even going to attempt to spell it and Google Translate doesn't do well with Anafo...

Random Photos and Accompanying Thoughts

To market, to market...

Erin is amazing when it comes to shopping.  I'm sure that anyone who knows her isn't surprised.  However, throw in a foreign language, several Togalese dialects, different customs and culture and you have a whole new experience.  She navigates this through necessity and does it well.  She gets all her own shopping done, plus helps other team members if they are having difficulty.  

She even has a bit of her father show through when it comes to bartering!  Her favourite technique is to ask for the African price, not the white man ( yovo ) price.  She surprised me with how well she's adapted to the market experience.  No surprise though, she's a sucker at the fabric stands...

Here are a couple of photos of her buying pineapples - perhaps the best pineapples I've had yet while here.  Tree ripened fruits are amazing, worlds better than what we have in North America.

A couple of things that don't grow well here appear to be tomatoes and cucumbers.  That's fine by me, but some dear readers might actually like these two things, so I thought I would show you what the ones we put on top of our sandwiches for lunch looked like.

Home Depot, Togo-style

Here is the local lumber vendor.  You will see a customer walk away with two or three 10 foot long two-by-sixes stacked on his head, climb onto the back of a moto and have his buddy drive away - with the lumber still perched atop his noggin!  Bizarre, but after seeing so many other sights, nothing surprises me any more except their ingenuity.

The Kpalime Blind School

Okay, the name is pronounced Pal-ee-may, not Kaplimay or Kayplime, or whatever else you might have come up with.  This town is home to a blind school that's associated with the Mission hospitals both in Mango and Tsiko.  LOts of kids with poor or no eyesight attend here.  They also have a craft store on sight where the older kids and adults can sell items they have hand-crafted.  They also sold ice-cold Pepsi and Mountian Dew.  Score!  Consider me a customer!

On the grounds Nate was able to come and help build a new bridge over the creek near the main gate.  It's dried up in this dry season so it was a perfect time to rebuild.  Nate helped with the concrete work and some, umm, let's call it "dredging" of the creek bed.  It was more like hours of hard labour under a blistering sun.  Here are some pictures of the bridge, where they have dug from - by hand tools only! - and where they need to dig to.  They were almost halfway done.  All the way past the wooden foot-bridge to the trees, men...

I've mentioned before how they have some ingenious ideas and are very resourceful.  Here on the grounds of the Tsiko hospital they receive shipping containers from Europe and North America bringing all kinds of medical supplies and equipment.  They build they containers into large storage buildings once they have been emptied.  Since they have to order 6-9 months in advance, filling the container is essential.  The empty container is added to a line of previously received ones and has the roof removed and then a sloped tin roof built overhead, I assume to give more space and reduce heat build-up.

Oh, one more thing...

Since I've got a soft spot for old Land Rovers, here is one I saw in the town of Adeta.  At least, I think it was Adeta.  Please forgive me as things seem a bit of a blur and keeping names and places straight is tres difficile.

Another couple of eventful days

Snake stories

I got my first snake experience yesterday.  We were swimming in the pool when one of the doctor ladies came bursting through the gate asking if someone could come kill a snake!  Nate and I jumped out of the pool and grabbed our t-shirts and shoes, grabbed a aluminum pole from the pool skimmer and a koup-koup (a machete-like knife) from the pool deck and took off toward Betty's place.

 We arrived just after Dr. Eric Miller had dispatched the snake with a spade.  The snake was still squirming when we got there.  Apparently they are very dangerous.  Not as dangerous as a doctor armed with a shovel!

Here are a couple of pictures of the green mamba here.  Feel free to Google it to learn more about it.  All I know is that if I see one I should either walk the other way or kill it.

Market Experience

I'm not great a speaking French.  I'm better than Nathan, however!  I was able to buy some fabric, a Togo national soccer jersey (two, actually - Nate wanted one, too!) and 4 coup-koup tools from different vendors.  It was fun.  I was surprised how the people were able to understand me.  I barely passed French in school.  I was having a blast dealing with people, chatting about soccer, the hospital and where I was from.

Here is the fabric lady posing with me.  She was very accommodating during our transaction.

Nate bought me a sac de l'eau - a bag of water.  It actually is a bag of water.  It's 300ml of water in a plastic bag, no bottle, non-refillable, fast to heat up...  Interesting idea.  I thought I uploaded the photo.  I'll try to do it tomorrow because it takes so long to do it.  Imagine a clear bag of water...

Tsiko Hospital

Here in Tsiko (pronounced Chee-ko.  Don't blame me for the spelling) I was able to take Kylie down to the hospital for one of her IV antibiotic treatments.  I wandered around the little hospital to see what was going on.  The popular phrase to greet those in getting looked after is "Du courage" - basically have courage or be strong.  I was able to wander freely and talk to people - in French again.  I met young parents, old folks, a guy with some internal pain.  All were very open to chatting.  The chaplain comes around regularly to share with them.  Even the hospital staff like to converse with them.

Here are a few pictures of the hospital.

 Here are some 28 week old twins.  They are so tiny, but seem to be doing well.  They were born two weeks ago.  They are kept in incubators right outside the nurse's station, seen below.

This is the lobby / nurse's  station.  Notice the guy sleeping on a stretcher and his sibling laying on the ground.  Everyone has someone to drop them off and make sure they're getting looked after.

Here is Nate getting his elbow wound cleaned up (from the moto incident) by one of the nurses.  They bandaged him up again and after Kylie was done sent us on our way!

Mountains and Downpours

Dr. John Gall is a young guy who has spent two short tours here in Tsiko.  He wanted to go for a hike this afternoon, mostly to bail on a lame tennis date he had with a senior doc, and hike up to the top of a small mountain just behind the hospital compound.

Nolan, Nate and I obliged him and we took off in the mid afternoon.  We just barely got started when we heard a bit of rumbling.  Being the dry season, we never thought about torrential downpours.  I think I just gave away the climax of the story.

The hike was hot, and humid.  The trail was very rugged, just beaten footpaths wandering their way up the mountain.  We'd pop out of the thick trees and be right in someone's little mud hut yard, or goat pen, or chicken coop.  It was bizarre seeing where people were living, on the steep side of the mountain.  

 This is us leaving the flat land for the mountain off to the left.  Armed with coup-koups, of course.  Mighty snake fighters, we were!

Here are Nolan and Nate in the thick brush.  This is the flat land just where the hills rise up.  The footpaths wander all around the place.  A maze of trails that the locals know like the back of their hands.  

A small bridge crossing over the tiny (at the moment) stream.

Due to internet issues the little mud hut photos didn't load up.  I'll try again tomorrow, I guess.

Once the rain started it pounded down on us.  Torrential is a good word for it.  We had to shout at each other as we were walking along because the rain was so loud on the leaves and ground.  Nolan chopped off a big banana leaf to shelter his head, but that didn't last long.  Soon there were trickles of water running down the trail as we descended from up high.  As we got near the bottom an all-out river was streaming over our feet down the trail.  We had to slow or pace by grabbing trees and branches to avoid slipping and sliding out of control.  It was a blast.  

We got drenched.  Not a stitch of dry clothing on us.  We found a little make-shift shelter to pause in so I could safely pull out a camera and snap a few pictures. 

 The rains moving in - with no sympathy for the yovo - white guys - trekking down the hillside.

 Dr. John keeping his camera dry taking a photo.

 Here's two pictures of Nate and I standing on solid ground, and then me standing on the trail where the water was flowing.  In an hour it was a stream!

That's it for tonight.  The power has flickered a couple of times, with the generator coming on to back up the power.  I'm shutting down the computer.

Oh, one more thing...

This is a full van, in Togo.  Passengers, luggage and goods to sell!